Hunner's Alpha H3

[Hunner]

Not sure where I put this steering rack fix but here it is again, this time on the Alpha and updated a bit. This will consolidate my fixes into my builds threads.

UPDATE;3/6/11
Ok, for the issue of the passenger side rack mount. I shot some video as well. It is time for the ALPHA to get this mod. I put on the Hutchinson's and Cooper 35's and have driven a couple thousand miles. I started hearing the knocking sound as soon as I get on an unpaved road. I can feel it in the steering wheel. Recreating it by moving everything is only a sample of what is happening when the vehicle is doing it.
Passenger side with a bushing that looks good but; I just cannot believe that is"'supposed to be that way"
Turn up the volume! I guess all you whippersnapper computer savvy guys know to click on the image for the video.


This is the driver side while shaking the passenger side. The movement is transmitted to this side causing pressure right where the black part connects to the aluminum. This side has two bolts on the aluminum gear box of the steering so the force is on the tube. You can also see it moving the steering shaft which can be felt at the steering wheel.


A little more looking around shows that with only 36,000 miles my upper a-arm bushings appear to be adding to the movement allowed. I'm not sure how much these are supposed to have but it looks like too much! Maybe not?
[URL=http://s913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/?action=view&current=20110306182610.mp4]

[/URL]

It's dead, (like John Wayne pronounces it) burry it in the yard like a bone. Your life is worth more than the cost of a rack!
Welcome to the Dead Rack Society!


It's not a GM rack it's Mondo Corporation of South Korea rack.
Heck, I have not lost all my memory yet I can throw out however much info you are willing to try.

"Adventure before Dementia" Nugget 2010!

This is a little bit of farmer, car restoration, race car fab, boat repair, and general BS inganeering. I claim NO responsibility for your skills and installation.

Don't try this it won't work.


You need one of these to try what I did.

It is a spring bushing often used with hydraulic rams. Well that makes sense.

This might not,
Upon insertion (are you still with me) into the holding bore (bracket) the compression of the bushing allows the teeth to make contact on one side along the plain of the seam. The installed bushing has an operational radial and tangenitial force. As a result, there is high contact pressure between the bushing and the housing.
I really don't know how that got in my head, is this voice in my head bothering you?

I found 1 (one) at a local shop several years ago when I did this. I get alot of work done on boat steering there. They never would get an order up big enough to throw in a couple for me. I sort of let it die since not many people have ever asked, until now. I will see what I can get.

"The older I get the smarter I was?"

Anyway it comes as a tube. I cut the side opposite the teeth. Then grind on the edges equally until it conforms to your shaft. :d
It ends up being just "ritenearalmost" (an Arkansaw measurement) the same as the OEM rubber bushing.
It is important not to misalign the shaft and "exacerbate" the problem. (extra points in scrabble)
If you have not yet broken your rack and are real slick you can "loosen" NOT remove the top and bottom bolts on the existing bracket and pull out the used rubber. Then you might slide in the new sleeve. NO lubrication! NO rubber! (really)The top bolt is a real monster and takes patience to remove and reinstall.
In a new application installing a new rack, well, a flex shaft extension and a short solid extension and close your eyes and feel cause you can't get your head in there and both arms at the same time. Removing the wheel helps.





This is the way it looks installed. I think in most cases this would be sufficient, but then what do I know. This also shows the center bracket I added just for overkill.


Part deau would be get a flex line made up for the short "pipe" and install or carry it and extra pump fluid, just in case. That will allow you to retain your fluid when installed of course, instead of pre-mature evacuation of the fluid and burning up your pump. That happens when that gap opens on the drivers side and the shorter pipe erupts.


Part 3 would be some heavy drilling, and measuring and profanity to mount another OEM bracket in the center against the pipe stub on the shaft. Again alignment is very important or you will cause the shaft to be under stress. I fabricated a straight shim from small channel to support the back side of the OEM bracket. You have to grind off the side towards the frame crossmember tapering it to fit. The crossmember is two pieces overlapped and is uneven. Don't pay any attention to the clevis ends on my rack, as usual looking at someone else's rack will cost you more money.




As I always say, turning up the torsion bars changes the angle of the tie rods causing them to push UP more than they push in and out in the stock configuration. Heavier larger wider tires in my opinon add to the pressure.
It's all about what you are willing to work with to get the results you want.
Edit. one possible affect this could have would be more stress on the internal seal at the end of the rack. I ran this on my 06 for I believe 35,000 miles. I will have to go back and research that figure. I am finally running 35's on my 08 Alpha but know the risks and plan to install the end bushing very soon.

[Hunner]

I pulled the skid plates to inspect things and install the metal steering rack bushing. I found that even though the rubber rack bushing looked good there was evidence it had been allowing the rack to move. With the H3 jacked up and the weight off the wheels I shot the video of it dancing around.
Next I removed the pass side tie rod boot to inspect the connection. Still tight with Loc-tight AND torqued properly.

I see engine oil at the front of the engine. It had weeped back down the pan and was all over the wiring harness at the front below the engine. I'm guessing front crank seal.
So I decide to take it to the friendly GMC dealer rather than take a chance at the used to be Hummer dealer now Mitsubishi where I had trouble several times before.
Having never done a seal on the engine on a Hummer H3 I will not know until in the morning what is involved.
I am at 36,500 so drive train covers the seal.
They offered me a vehicle right up front but said it would have to be in the morning they are out of cars. Gave me ride home. I will probably just drive the old Cummins and loosen it up.
Let's break out the jacks and air tools, remove the skids and do some inspection if you got more miles then I do:eek: Better to find it now than on a desolate trail.
Or if you got a Complimentry Service Inspection letter from your Hummer dealer valid this week, let them do it. You might politely mention checking that rack seal, under the boot.

[Hunner]

I got the front engine seal fixed under warranty. Turns out the rack was not leaking. What I was seeing was diluted grease that is normally on the rack. Can imagine how some water got in there! I guess I knee jerked on that one.
So I finally got in the mood to attempt the sleeve insertion on the Alpha. I'm not sure but it seems the cast iron diff makes the small area I need to get my hands in very tight compared to the aluminum. Maybe my hands have swelled up. I get a bit of vertigo laying upside down under there. The attempt today, I must have had the right attitude. I gave up trying to get the rubber bushing out without removing the bracket. Since now I could get my fingers in there to restart the bolt I went for it.
I used two special ratchet handles I have. I had to start with the deep socket and flex head bent handle one and then go to the short socket and flex head longer handle. It's a 15mm.
I could only get a few clicks at a time. I had my head rest set on the creeper and just took my time. Had to get out and get some air and recover a couple of times.
I just removed the whole bracket. There was "gaulding" as my old Dad would say inside the metal bracket where the rubber had been twisting around. The rack also had the standard worn off paint, more evidence of lots of movement.
On the bottom of the bracket is a tab that fits under the raised mounting for the bracket. I got frustrated trying to fit the bracket over the metal sleeve and having access to tools cut the damn thing off. I guess it was there to line things up and as a last resort of some kind. I turned the sleeve so the halves were front to back so the bracket compressed them closer together. I did not have to grind off the back of the bracket to get a tight fit. The sleeve will fit between the hydraulic fitting and the aluminum fitting on the end of the rack.
I of course used thread locker liberly and had to slowly start the upper bolt. It has an un-threaded end which helps center it in the hole and it appears five tapered threads that stick out the welded nut it goes into.
I got them as tight as I could with the extended ratchet handle but could not get the torque wrench on the top one. I went until they quit moving and a really hard tug and a grunt. That should be about 50+ lbs.
I did the ole tire wiggle test and the rack does not move. There is a bit of wiggle in the tie rod ends and upper control arm bushing, very little, acceptable. No knocking when I drive down the gravel roads or lumpy pavement in the steering.
I had to paint in Hunner gaudy mod red for pictures.
Mission completed once again.:Yippee:
Now where are those pieces I cut for the skid plate under the transfer case..............

[Seth]

Great write-up Hunner. Your mods inspire the masses.

[nugget]

go teh Hunner! Bit worried about which instrument you tugged and grunted on to establish the 50 ft lb rating though

[Hunner]

I always follow the guide for the torque determined by the size of the fitting! So that unit you are implying could probably handle that or more!!
How is that 90 coming along? Not sure I could do 90!!

[Squirrelly1]

Your Alpha H3 is Bad Ass
What brand of tires do you have and size?

[Hunner]

Thanks, I'm working on it.
Don't know which shots you saw but currently I am running 315 75 16 Cooper STT .

[Hunner]

I guess I never put the long version over here. So here it is. 12/22/11
This was written some time ago but is mostly up to date.

I used gel cells when they came out for my sailboat to eliminate gassing while enclosed in a confined space. (remember the Hindenburg) hydrogen gas + sparks! I was impressed with their serviceability. So started using a pair of them in my Dodge Cummins and one in my 06 Hummer. I never got around to adding the second one in the Hummer until I got the 08 Alpha. I was going on more extended trips farther from home and help.
They were not tolerant to high voltage DC unregulated chargers. Cooked them. They did work well with a properly regulated alternator.
When regulated chargers got developed that could use the proper charging required these did ok.
Along came AGM absorbed glass mat with some of the same features and more. No gassing, no leaking acid, do not corrode terminals, deep cycle, faster charging rate, resistant to vibration and can withstand the submersion in water and not short out. All of the great features of these batteries are also good for a bouncing offroad vehicle.
They are also good for more cycles of deep discharge whereas a starting battery is designed for short discharge and continuous maintenance recharge in a vehicle. This would work well in case of a drowned or dead engine you should be able to winch to at least a dryer place to work.

I used the battery vent hose for the cable run from the winch. I really don't need to spray the batteries with crap thru that thing and I don't think the bugs and dust insulate it all that well inside that thin plastic box. I put a reflective coated neoprene pad on the side of the battery closest to the engine and it was long enough to cover the ends. It is still the same distance from that wiring harness the battery tray was. I did not push them over but did release them from the tray and removed the plastic tray. The battery is two inches closer to the engine than it was.
I decided to go "KISS" (keepitsimplestupid) on this for now. NO switch, but I can just remove a terminal or swap the main lead.
I want both charging all the time, more amperage for winching and can always disconnect one jumper to save one hot if I'm winching with the engine dead so I have a gauge on what to try next before reconnecting it. That eliminates extra cable and simplifies the setup.
I used the screw terminals for the jumpers between batteries and attached the winch to those. I used SS nuts, not the wing nuts. I have now updated those to 2 Gauge 7 1/2 inch instead of the 2/0 which allowed me to bend them in over the batteries. I used welding cable with heavier insulation and fine flexible wire. I used copper lugs that were tinned with closed ends and a special crimper with shrink wrap. I also have an open pos and neg terminal for my rear winch connections.

Exide Marine dual terminal deep cycle.
CCA 750 @0* CA/MCA 950 @32* more like Arkansas weather!
compared to AC Delco
CCA 590 no listing on the battery for CA/MCA

I replaced those OEM main terminals. I decided to just torque one past the point I consider safe to see if it would ever tighten enough that I could not move it. It begain to buckle underneath and actually loosened it. Snip!
I have now Hunnerized the new main lead terminals. Universal ones don't fit the negative tapered post. Those first ones I used in the proto-type are those "emergency" style you find everywhere. You will have an emergency if you depend on that crap. They do not even provide a tapered nut anymore, so it does dig into the lead before it gets tight! I drove the 60 miles to my Brother-in-laws electrical automotive shop. You think I'm pickey!!! He has a great selection of special fittings and several high tech crimpers. We used the hydraulic ones and they are CRIMPED completely and evenly all around the diameter. Not a screw that pierces the wire or pushes on a tiny plate. These gives the full current carrying capacity of the gauge of wire being used.
A secure physical connection insures a good electrical connection.
Looks like a candy store!





This was before the heat shrink was slid up flush and heated to show the crimp. It also shows the "emergency" type terminal that just are not right for this application.

We had to make some custom dies for the hydraulic crimper to keep from distorting the fittings. We did it in two stages with two dies. The one that came with it are for larger wire and terminals. Like for John Deere's. That of course required us to machine our own dies on a verticle milling machine. Another excuse to play with neat machines. He was busy so I got to use his special tools. I used lead coated copper fittings with closed ends and sealed them with shrink wrap lined with adhesive that when shrunk really seals things up. So I did not pursue the marine grade tinned wire.
This is my protype shot using shop supplies I had, to mock up the cables before going down there.

This is the progress for now.

This is a detailed install and so was written for someone considering doing it. It is not "lite" reading.
Unique to these batteries is the two holes between cylinders that on top is capped off by the thickness of the blue top piece. The difficulty on the H3 using the existing base for the second battery, the position closer to the engine, has for some reason a large hole right where I needed to drill. Then the other hole would line up with a contour edge. I center punched and drilled that one. Then the problem is the bracket is formed down to the fender liner. That leaves a folded seam where these two come together and would not work to drill thru and install washers and nuts.
I went with "J" bolts found at any autoparts store except I made them "L" bolts by straightening the ends to a level position. Use at least 5/16 that was as big as I could find. Here comes the most "tecknackle" part. Caution this involves duct tape! I stuck them down in the two holes in the base and taped them so they would stay oriented with the L under the base plate. I just used spin on nuts, lock washers and locktite on the top to keep from turning them. I left the threaded part a little long. Im considering running a brace across the top of the batteries just for good measure. Hunnerized!
The battery closest to the fender I used a long bit clear down thru the fender liner. The liner is not against the fender so would not allow for tightening. I used a die grinder to make a hole for a socket to fit up in there to hold the nut. I use stainless for everything since I had most of it and it will allow for easy removal. I used 3/8 all-thread and put nylocs on the bottom end to hold that in place and was able to use them on the top while holding the bottom. It's a stretch to reach!
The base plate I had to bend down a tab with a hole in it for a wireloom connection to get it out of the way. I then added some neoprene on the slight edge since it is too short and strong to bend.
The SS ubolt in the middle was my first attempt to install a battery hold down strap, fail! Not enough room.




stay tuned a work in progress..................
Found a possible switch if anyone goes that way. It's inclosed so will be protected. I found another place that indicates those panels like you see in the top can be removed on any side to allow the wires to go in.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/S-D-422760-1/180001/Battery+Switches+%26+Accessories/Battery+Switch+with+Knob.html

Here is another for a little more money but not as boxy.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/357130/377%20710%201641/0/Batteries%20/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/20/0?N=377 710 1641&Ne=0&Ntt=Batteries &Ntx=mode matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=29

Link for terminals
http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M50/320/125/200/1/Crimpable%20Straight/Battery%20Lugs/Terminals%20And%20Connectors/

[Hunner]

Hunner EXtreme exploratory bumper/facia/winch mount thread;
Caution another Hunner long read and open to suggestions.
My goal is a one off for me without restrictions and possibly if the market develops offer some semi-custom options. Depends on the fab shop or how much I can do.
I know we wore out bumper discussions and it is still a dream. I am still a hard core wincher and like my winch drum where I can see it. Overrides with cable or syn line can really be a problem often causing a winch to be disabled. I have winched out the end of a cable for others with hidden winches. If they get over rides and are in a strain they will pull either type down into the drum wraps and really be a mess. Been there seen it. Wheelin in bean fields and rice fields and the "bottoms" is a whole nuther world. Having a cool looking hidden winch under a foot of water and mood is not of much use. (just my opinon from past observations) Early Sidewinders on full size Broncos and Blazers were the worst.
So for me and my PowerPlant I can spare a few more inches of overhang and loose my vanity over a hidden winch. So this might not be for everyone. I have never been stopped by the overhang,,, yet of course. It's just a truck!
However if somewhat recessed but exposed is what seems to be the popular style then for those so inclined (pun intended) that should be a partial option. I want to make it so a low profile winch could be partially under the upper grill to reduce front overhang. The H3 community has varied ideas of a design with an unknown market volume. A design that has some options is possible. Then I guess if you want to stand your H3 on the front bumper, go for it.
I currently have the Steelcraft brush guard/winch mount and will use that in the design for mine.
This will have the options to also use a couple of other Hummer owners designs along with my added facia light pods.
I want to use the existing lower aluminum skid that ties into the edges of the OEM bumper instead of hanging out on each side like some I have seen that are generic bumpers adapted to different vehicles and then are whacked off. I will use the stock bumper and skid but it will have added reinforcing. I also reversed and flipped the existing brackets.
I have wanted to do this since 06 but had lots of false starts and dead ends. I followed all the threads about doing this and saw them die off. Now I have the chance to make what I want but will try to make it with easily adapted options. If it really happens for mine then I will see what options we can add. My idea is to use existing tow hooks and the mount I have now which has only a few inches overhang. That way a Steelcraft brush guard or OEM could be added or removed. I'm not sure I will continue to have one but want the option of bolting one on. I would like to lighten the front end some and compensate for the bumper/facia. If the facia protects the fenders out to the edge I can probably live with out a brush guard. I think I can in most cases avoid plowing down brush as I don't do that on purpose on the roads I travel and don't like to subject my H3 to that.
There is not much re-inforced bracing out to the edges of our fenders so what I am making will replace the tupperware facia but not truly be a "push" bumper for plowing down trees out to the edges. I'm going to use 10 gauge steel and may connect the two sides with an upper and lower flat cross piece. Mine will extend out to the width of the added flares.
Right now I have mocked up prototype and I am waiting on the cad drawings and a first prototype in steel. I blocked off the pie shaped hole and inserted some lights. I will offer some plates to cover that area that can be cut to fit the light of choice.
Next step was cutting out all the pieces in the center to allow more air flow. My Powerplant and 9500 ti both have to be in front of the upper grill.
I have come up with a shorter recessed winch mount by adding some custom pieces for winches mounted partially under the grill.
In my case I added an air tank for faster air ups and limited air tool operation.
So far just a dream but I'm working on it!

It's gotta get worse before it gets better. I think a powerwash in the morning would help. Exploratory surgery:shifty:

The concept of modular wings is part of my project on the front. It took a long time to mock up as I was removing all the extra parts. I have some stuff left over! I may have a couple of attached partitions to funnel air to the radiator like the large piece was supposed to do. Those may attach to a cross over shell that ties them together for stability but does not block air flow as much as the lower grill did.

I managed to squeeze the Warn full size hot dog tank into the OEM bumper cap. I have an older bumper laying around and this tank would not fit. My 08 has a larger size bumper to allow for that nerf bar they added. That makes the skid larger as well. Everything will bolt back as before. I'm trying to retain as much OEM stuff as I can to keep costs down and keep the H3 look to a point but get more clearance around the front tires.
I removed the damaged part of my OEM facia that extends down low as I keep smashing it when rocks run out in front of me!

Does that count as an airbag? note there are NO air bag sensors in here, it's a module under the passengers seat that senses.
Did a little plumbing with two shut off valves so I can keep what I have pumped up but disconnect the lines, with quick connects.



This is the winch mount pattern that will reinforce the bumper by tieing in to the frame in existing slots and in addition add support besides the tow hook mounting points, for the recessed winch. In that case that winch mount plate on mine would not be there.

Waiting on laser time!

[wpage]

Hunner you are the man! When a smart entrepreneur buys and reinvents the Hummer brand. Hunner should be in the design mix...
Out of the three Hummer classes the H3 is going forward and its a shame no one has resurrected it where GM left off. In the mean time go easy on it. They will be auctioned off in the million dollar range in the not to distant future.

[Hunner]

I was in the mix more than some know there at the end, before the ax fell..........
Well thank you. I just want it to be reliable and have fun.
I may start thinking about parting with it when it gets to a million!
I still have a list of things to do when I have time between trips and make a bit more play money.

[Hunner]

Just to let yall know I'm still alive I put together a collection of some images with comments for a project I am working on. Some have been posted in the past but some have not been or never together.

There are lots of street driven H3's in this area. I see several in a day most days. (rolling parts supplies)
According to the nice Hummer H3 book by Larry Edsall the design team for the H3 was trying to build a capable offroad vehicle and was allowed some freedom to design.
I drove the trails in Moab they used to test the "mules" on and was impressed at it's off the shelf capability.
I recommend this book for Hummer enthusiasts. Great information.
http://www.amazon.com/Hummer-Launch-book-Larry-Edsall/dp/0760321957
What seems to have happened was the market was also affected by people wanting the vehicle that also looked the part, just for daily driving.
Thus the SUV accessories added by GM, ie chrome and luxury items which helped the brand take off.
However getting to a place to "offroad" and back doesn't mean you can't enjoy the luxury of an H3!
I want to share some of my favorites, offroad. I have these blown up 20 x 30 on my shop walls to inspire me to explore more while I can. They have been around a while but are a timeless reminder of the capability of this vehicle.
I hope to add to my collection soon!
This is a mixture of my 06 and 08. All the mods transferred.

Arkansas, Saline River Bottoms, before getting into the mud.

The large red tie rods I worked with BulletProof Steering to produce. They have high quality spherical rod ends that allow more articulation. They are not always red but they have always worked without bending or breaking like the early 14mm OEM.

Arkansas Ouachita National Forest volunteer scouting low water bridge GPS mapping trip.

Hummer Edition proving grounds, 180 degree spin stabiltrak OFF! remote trigger camera.

Power slide stabiltrak OFF "drifting"

Gravel excavation pit, not virgin soil! Testing fender flare trimming with 315's.

Moab SteelBender, "The Fall" the spare almost hit, only got the license.

Death Valley, one of my most memorable scenic trips, it felt good to have a capable, well prepared vehicle, (and spare parts) no cell phone signal here!

Start of the Mojave a great remote area.

Mojave Road, dry soda lake, yes the H3 does have a speed limiter! Unless you have it disabled.

Near the West end of Mojave Road, only water I saw in days in the desert

Long Ranch, Texas, stretching out.

Superlift Offroad Park, Arkansas I guided for three years and led 3 Hummer Happenings and some Hummer club trips. Level 3 trails were about right.

Tetons, frozen lake, but you have to think about all that virgin snow!

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah very unique and interesting history and vastness.

[Mark]

Great photos let alone all the memories you have to go with them

[Hunner]

What memory? I'm going to have to do it all over again, I fergit!
or as Nugget says "adventure before dementia"