Carrier bushing redux

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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby 08H3 » Mon Apr 04, 2011 8:50 pm

HawaiianH3 wrote:Changed out tranny fluid this weekend and thought about doing the bushing! Just wanna clarify again why the oem bolt could not be used? I have all the parts except for the bolt. Also still considering if the extra "shock" bushing "needs" to be added to the bottom portion of the lower bushing???? :)


OEM bolt is not long enough with the shock bushing. If you do not use the shock bushing, the OEM bolt will be long enough. Before I destroyed something with my redneck fixes, I did the full on Bebe mod this weekend. Only thing I did different was added a 3/16" spacer under the lover bushing. Bebe's OEM washer is probably fine, but by putting something on the bottom that is a larger diameter of than the hole in the crossmember it will take any stress off that lower bushing if the force tries to pull it up through the crossmember. Is the bushing necessary? I don't know-- I discussed its merits with a buddy, and the results basically end with "inconclusive". I was going to leave it off, but added it in the end.

A word of warning to anyone attempting this. It apparently goes one of two ways. It's either like Bebe's where it just falls out, or it's like Rob and I where that outer sleeve is a daylong nemesis. Mine took a lot of PB blaster, fire, and cold water to finally break it out. A hint-- if you have a 36mm socket (spindle nut size), it will just barely fit the inside dimensions of the crossmember hole and allow you to at least start to knock it out.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby The Other Rob » Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:58 pm

I hadn't thought about it until now, but I'm betting a ball joint press and the right cups and caps would press it out without much trouble..
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby 08H3 » Tue Apr 05, 2011 12:02 am

The center sleeve pressed out with relative ease using a bottle jack and the weight of the Hummer. A real honest to goodness shop press would have made that cake. The outer sleeve was the one that was really stuck.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby The Other Rob » Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:41 am

The center part is just a matter of getting the rubber bushing to rip apart. The biggest issue with the inner part is that there's not much material there to push against with a press.. Have to find something large enough to get a bite on the bushing sleeve and still be small enough to slip through the cross member.. That 36mm spindle socket you found may be the ticket if mated together with a press..

I beat on a ball joint on my daughters truck this weekend for 20 - 30 minutes with a BFH and it wouldn't move a bit.. Went to Autozone and borrowed a Pitman arm puller and was able to press it out on under 15 seconds.. There's no way on earth you'd beat a ball joint out of a Jeep with a hammer, but a ball joint press makes quick easy work of it by just keeping steady pressure on the part and not letting up until you turn it loose..
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby DirtyH3 » Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:47 pm

Tackled this mod finally this weekend. Took about an hour and a half. Everything is pretty straight forward and has been discussed a lot in this thread. The only tip I have to add is to use a 36mm impact socket (same size that takes off the spindle nut on the driveshafts). In a vise, I put one end of the crossmember to support it and let the other lay on the work bench. The 36mm socket just happens to be the same diameter as the old bushings outer sleeve. After removing the inner sleeve (which fell out with two wacks of a hammer - mine was toast)I basically just lined up the 36mm socket with OEM outer sleeve and after about 7 hits with a 5lb sledge the inner sleeve popped out. Some have used an air hammer to bend the lip and what not, but this is by far the easiest way unless you have a press to use.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby Hunner » Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:09 pm

I keep seeing the reference to a 36 mm socket for the spindle nut. I tried that size when I did a steering knuckle replacement when doing some work because I thought that was what if was. Turns out mine on both H3's I have had are 35mm.
So do you guys have a tight fit on the actual axle nut with the 36mm?
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby 08H3 » Fri Apr 15, 2011 10:51 pm

Hunner wrote:I keep seeing the reference to a 36 mm socket for the spindle nut. I tried that size when I did a steering knuckle replacement when doing some work because I thought that was what if was. Turns out mine on both H3's I have had are 35mm.
So do you guys have a tight fit on the actual axle nut with the 36mm?


36mm fits mine fine. You're 100% correct though. Some people use a 35mm. Go figure.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby Hunner » Sun Apr 17, 2011 12:45 am

Did you torque it to 130 lbs with that 36 mm?
The 36 on both mine had slop and I tried two different Lsyle sockets.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby 08H3 » Sun Apr 17, 2011 8:28 am

I know I've asked already a million questions on this mod, but I think it's one of the simplest ones out there with the most benefit so I'm going to ask two more.

1.) Was there a reason you went with the 1/2 bolt instead of sticking with the 12mm?
2.) What did you torque the bolt to? I think the original setup is around 70 ft lb, but that would completely flatten out the shock bushing.

Hunner wrote:Did you torque it to 130 lbs with that 36 mm?
The 36 on both mine had slop and I tried two different Lsyle sockets.


Honestly, I have never used it. I only bought it to be prepared in case I ever need it. When I went to the parts store, I tried both a 35mm and a 36mm. The 35 would not fit -- it was too small.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby Hunner » Sun Apr 17, 2011 5:14 pm

It's a mystery!!
Apparently I am in good company.

by f5fstop » Wed Dec 22, 2010 7:55 pm

It's a 35mm socket. All bolts/nuts, etc., designed for the H3 (and all GM products for quite a few years) have been metric designated. If a 35 was loose, it was because the socket was bad, or the nut has been removed a few times already with a bad socket. I have a snap on 35 and it fits nice and snug; no movement at all. (Also have a mismarked craftsman 36 that fits great too, but it is really a 35 when checked with a mic.

and another interesting opinion.
by Mu-taint » Mon Nov 22, 2010 6:23 pm

I just checked my 1/2 shaft replacement tool kit (yep I have a kit just for that) and it was a 1 3/8" which jarred my memory!

I remember now!!!! I went to the Ultimate Tool Store with my wife (I'm only allowed to go there when supervised). They let me take a 36mm out and check the fit on the nut. It WAS sloppy, so I tried a 35mm and I still felt it was to sloppy. So i tried a 1 3/8" socket and it fit perfectly. I did a standard to metric conversion and came up with 34.925mm. So the 35mm will work just a RCH larger then the 1 3/8" socket.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby H3-ING » Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:47 pm

Hunner wrote:It's a mystery!!
Apparently I am in good company.


Add one more to the 35mm side.
I have a 35mm in my tool kit :yup:
36mm was sloppy.
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby 07H3 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:18 pm

PhilD wrote:
4speedfunk wrote:Nugget...I saw you made your own outboard bushings. Are you taking orders?
A complete kit with bushings, crush pins, washers, nut & bolt will be available in a few weeks.

Is this kit on the website? I can't find it...
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby The Other Rob » Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:27 pm

Don't think it ever happened..

Little update on mine though.. Had the truck into the shop for one of the free Hummer oil changes today.. Asked them if they'd go ahead and shoot some grease in all the spots on the driveshaft while it was up.. Saw they had it up for a bit and the guy changing the oil was looking at something with a puzzled look on his face and had called the lead tech over.. Figured I'd better go make sure he knew what that there were 5 spots on the shaft needing grease (the one in the cage is hard to find, not to mention get to).. They were looking the bushing over pretty good trying to figure out what was up with it and noticed the bolt was pretty loose.. Kinda odd with the nylock nut on top.. Turns out the rubber shock bushing is long gone.. We went ahead and tightened the bolt and everything back up with out the rubber bushing.. They also had a nice large thick washer to put in place of the flared washer.. More stress on the washer and less on the center of the bushing.. Those weird vibes I had between 35 and 40 are gone now too..

They were mildly impressed with the fix for a long term fix, but kinda agreed that the extra work put into getting the OEM Bushing out the first time kinda makes the fix a wash the first time around.. They've had to replace quite a few of the crossmembers due to bushing failures now and haven't had any problems getting parts..
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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby 07H3 » Fri Jul 15, 2011 12:50 am

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Re: Carrier bushing redux

Postby ddimit » Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:09 pm

2011-10-29_15-31-06_278.jpg
2011-10-29_15-31-06_278.jpg (39.45 KiB) Viewed 1279 times
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Ok First post here.

I did the bushing change out from the Susupension Restoration kit. Something not quite right here. Is there susposed to be this much gap between the bushing and the cross member? Im thinking not. needs to be trimmed down to fit tight. Any opinions?
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