Oil Change

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Oil Change

Postby firemedic2000 » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:47 pm

Well my oil change light came on. This is my 1st oil change on an I5. I have heard so much about the the Royal purple oil. I want to change the oil myself and use this. Is the Royal purple as good as what I've read and heard and what else do I need to do when changing oil on my 09 H3. All hwy miles no off road yet. I have about 7300 miles.

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Re: Oil Change

Postby Robo » Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:46 pm

Can't say much about the engine oil, haven't used it. But I have seen viscosity issues with it in a Pontiac G8 GT. complaints of hard shift and other wierd trani issues. HOWEVER, I have no idea other than what the customer said as to the viscosity of the fluid he used but if memory serves me correctly, he was using the correct viscosity oil but it was playing havoc with the trani.
just my 2c
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Re: Oil Change

Postby ltr450crbm » Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:42 am

Don't rush with synthetics.
Initially it is good to run a crap oil = what the dealer puts in.
This will allow the engine to run in.
I would suggest running the engine for 25-30 000 km on mineral 10W30 oil prior to changing to fancy stuff.
My "change oil" light came on after 14 000km for the first time . This is too long an interval.
Run the crap mineral oil for 5000km and synthetics for 10000km ( easy to remember ) .
Royal Purple is good, same category as Motul 300V, the esther.
These oils are perfect for new motors.
When changing oil access to filter is the issue, but manageable.
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Re: Oil Change

Postby f5fstop » Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:38 am

You can run synthetic from day one, and GM does it in many of their engines. It will not cause a problem; however, from testing it may not do more than regular oil. Too many people are hung up on changing oil, but I have met very few who have ever tested the the oil from a GM vehicle that was changed per the oil life indicator lamp. I have and every time, the oil came back from the analysts as still being viable.

The important thing to remember is to use the specification required by GM. The algorithms in the computer are based on a specific grade of oil. If you use a lower grade, then the oil light will not be correct when it comes on for your oil change. If you use a spec that is better than the GM spec (example going from regular oil to Mobil 1) then the light will not be accurate, but the oil will be ok.

New modern oil, that developed in the past fifteen years, is a heck of a lot better than the oil used by daddy. In dad's day, 3K was needed, nowadays, 3K is usually a waste of money and natural resources. But changing it early won't hurt the engine, switching to synthetic will not hurt the engine, or switching back-and-forth will not hurt the engine. In addition, most oils sold today use synthetic additives and additives at one time, were the reason oil degraded. The actual oil base was ok, but the additives had burned out. Nowadays, additives last as long as the oil base.

Motor oil and the additives will degrade over a certain time based on known conditions. The computer monitors certain sensors and based on the algorithms it can calculate when the lifespan of the oil and additives is at an end. In GM's case, it will actually turn on the light prior to the engine oil being totally degraded giving you a little padding to get it changed. The only places that really push for the 3K oil changes are those places that will gain money from you changing every 3K. If I owned an oil change shop, dealer, or sold oil, I would tell you change it every 3K. Hell, daddy and gramps did it, so it must be true.

After sitting around reading GM test results for engines run under all conditions with all types of oil, I became a believer. After changing my oils based on the oil light, and sending off a sample to Breakstones in IN for testing, then reading the results I turned into a true believer.

But hey, it's your money, do with it whatever you want. This oil discussion comes up every six months, and most will do whatever dad or gramps told them to do.
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Re: Oil Change

Postby Robo » Thu Mar 25, 2010 9:18 am

Overall, IT'S ENGINE OIL. I would use a good quality oil and not the "Pep Boys" brand, but unless you have some kinda 250K pasta rocket or a Porsche GT2 turbo, the way I see it simple.

Conventional oil change will run roughly $20 DIY or Jiffy Lube (if you trust them with your rig :no: )
Synthetic is what now, $8 - $10 per quart :duh:

Either way, conventional oil change under $60 (even at dealer prices)
New Hummer $40-$80 grand

I'll change my oil every 3-5K and not worry about it :yup:
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Re: Oil Change

Postby HummerLite » Thu Mar 25, 2010 9:47 am

I've been changing the oil in mine by the oil life ( 10%-15% from the OnStar emails ) I've been using Mobil 1 from the first oil change, I picked mine up in Aug 05, and never had any problems Not even the head problems so many early H-3s had...... I now have 108,000 miles and all is good here.... Mobil 1 might have or have not helped, But, i feel better knowing i give it the good stuff...LOL
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Re: Oil Change

Postby wpage » Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:08 pm

I like the synthetics. Getting valvoline syntec for 20.00 per gallon at Wal Mart. Usually change at 5k...
Gives me a chance to get under it and wipe things down and check out the dark side of the H3!
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Re: Oil Change

Postby ltr450crbm » Sun Mar 28, 2010 4:03 am

My reason for recommending the mineral crap oil initially over a synthetic comes from experience with Japanese cars.
I have raced Subaru Impreza WRX STi for several years.
Guys in the club would often melt pistons from running too high boost.
We have seen on many occasions, that engines run on synthetics from day one, would not be run in properly.
The pistons would show glazing, not smoothly run in surfaces.
The highest mileage engine was 108 000 km when taken apart and showing this phenomenon.
I don't know about GM material quality but the Subarus were excellent.
So my issue is not the synthetic not lubricating well, but lubricating too well for the engine to run in.
A synthetic can easily run for 20 000km if the car is driven on road only.
BTW , how much is oil testing ?
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Re: Oil Change

Postby 08H3 » Sun Mar 28, 2010 5:38 pm

I can't really add much more than what f5 posted, but I can phrase it a different way. I'm not naive enough to think that I am somehow smarter than the computer or the engineer's that designed the truck. I've used, and will continue to use the cheapest oil I can find that meets spec along with a good filter when the light comes on. I used to be a big believer in synthetics until I eventually realized I might as well use my money as firestarter as the car ran just as well with dinosaur juice.
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Re: Oil Change

Postby f5fstop » Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:29 pm

ltr450crbm wrote:My reason for recommending the mineral crap oil initially over a synthetic comes from experience with Japanese cars.
I have raced Subaru Impreza WRX STi for several years.
Guys in the club would often melt pistons from running too high boost.
We have seen on many occasions, that engines run on synthetics from day one, would not be run in properly.
The pistons would show glazing, not smoothly run in surfaces.
The highest mileage engine was 108 000 km when taken apart and showing this phenomenon.
I don't know about GM material quality but the Subarus were excellent.
So my issue is not the synthetic not lubricating well, but lubricating too well for the engine to run in.
A synthetic can easily run for 20 000km if the car is driven on road only.
BTW , how much is oil testing ?



All I can say is the testing done by GM on oil and engine wear far exceeds any testing you could do (or at least it was before Obama took control). Not knocking you since I don't know you, I cannot believe you spend upwards of hundreds of millions of dollars on engine testing for wear and that included testing almost every known oil in the world. In fact, you talk of boost, and every turbo/SC engine GM produces requires synthetic from day one. All high HP engines such as the LS series all required synthetic from day one. All other engines did not require synthetic but did require oil meeting a specific oil grade spec and that is found in the Owner's Manual.

Really impressive in how oil has progressed over the past twenty or so years. Back when I as a kid, oil we used was primarily just oil with some additives to help it from foaming. Now, most additives in regular dino oil are synthetically made and last as long as the oil.


As for independent oil testing, the place I use is Blackstone Laboratories, Indiana. About 23 bucks for a test. They'll send you a free test kit that you fill and send in to them with the oil sample.
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Re: Oil Change

Postby ltr450crbm » Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:36 pm

f5stop: I do get your point.
Your comment about millions of dollars worth of testing is interesting.
With all this GM testing, it seems, they would churn out perfect cars.
This ideal world scenario does not fit into my experience.
I like the car, don't get me wrong, but in the first 14 months of ownership I have had transfer case replaced, gearbox replaced, exhaust manifold replaced, the CV boots just split open without anything poking them, 2 ball joints failed, rear muffler just fell off, sunroof rattled itself loose and drivers seat frame fractured.

We haven't touched the point of wax content yet.
I see mineral oil as a carrier of wax, waiting to deposit inside the oil galleries etc.
Initially , as your testing had shown, both oils work well at prolonged intervals.
But you cannot measure the narrowing of oil channels inside the engine and this will eventually kill an engine.
:) just like a narrowed coronary artery leading to a heart attack (poetic licence here).
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Re: Oil Change

Postby f5fstop » Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:30 am

T/case is not made by GM, exhaust is not made by GM, CV boots not made by GM, and i can go on and on. I don't believe anyone makes a perfect car and that includes Subaru. Things break. Possibly the problems you are seeing in your Subaru engines is due to their manufacturing process and materials used. You knock the Hummer but you are blaming oil on the problems in the Subaru. Are you a chemical or mechanical engineer? Have you spent 18 years working in a service engineering capacity with people who are chemical and mechanical engineers, who work not only in testing labs, proving grounds and the actual field.

Honestly, when GM owned part of Subaru, we tore them apart too. Didn't see anything really super duper about the engines. I never got into the metallurgy of the metals so possibly Subaru used some super metals; not sure.

As for wax buildup, that could be a myth...
"Myth: Paraffinic base oils can cause wax buildup and sludge.
Fact: Not true. All high quality petroleum motor oils are made from paraffinic base oils. In spite of its name, “paraffin” does not mean candle wax. The stability of paraffin molecules makes paraffinic base oils more resistant to the chemical changes that can take place in an engine than other types of base oils. That means less sludge, varnish and corrosive wear with a high quality paraffinic base motor oil."

In addition, I believe there are additives added to prevent any type of possible buildup of other sludge type materials. Remember, it is the burn off of the additives that destroys engine oil. That is why there is a big push in the country to reuse the oil from oil changes. They process it mix in the new additives and sell it and from early reports I read, it works as good as brand new oil from the ground.

In regard to your original statement. Are you honestly trying to tell me that using dyno oil for x-number of miles then switching to synthetic is base on anything other than your minor experience of Subaru engine tear downs? Or is it based on some mysterious magic found on the Internet? I guess I end this discussion now, since it appears you love Subaru's and they are not at fault for failure, only the oil; meanwhile, everything Hummer is wrong. I don't get into these discussions anymore. Too much else to do, and I honestly don't care when you change your oil, what you change it with, or even if you change your oil.

Good day...
Thank you, USVibrant.
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Re: Oil Change

Postby ltr450crbm » Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:35 am

I am sorry to have upset you f5fstop. Not my intention.
But I find you comments challenging again.
If transfer case, CV boots , exhaust and the list goes on are not made by GM, than who claims the responsibility for quality ? do the contractors also test their product as extensively as GM do?
I only mentioned Subaru piston melting due to high boost. My only warranty claim in years of owning a Subarus ( all used for racing) was a noisy blow off valve.
No I don't have 18 years experience in GM customer service.
The wax build up being a "myth" I strongly disagree with.
I agree that a refurbished oil is almost as good as new but the chains get sheared and broken during use and ageing of oil in the engine is not only due to additives expiring, the molecular structure of the hydrocarbon chains gets distorted.
Regarding my original statement: Yes , as mentioned it is based on my (club was 700 cars at that time, 120 raced regularly) limited experience.
No , it is not based on "mysterious internet magic".
No , I don't love Subarus, on road I find them boring , but I do admit that at the limit few cars come close,and none for comparable price.
I really like my Hummer now. This thing is very competent off road; 35inch tyres on a standard car is fantastic. On road manners excellent.
F5fstop, I have read many of your posts and I appreciate your contribution to this forum, your posts are worth reading. Somehow this thread got out of hand.
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Re: Oil Change

Postby Bayrat » Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:21 pm

I'll chime in since I have both the Subaru and the H3 and I understand that this thread is not about brand bashing so I will try not to do that.

I used to believe that the Subaru was so much better than the American offerings but after this third one, a 2008 that just went over the 60k mile marker, we are buying an Escape to replace it. I have never been able to ride comfortably in any of them but since they all belong to the admiral, I seldom drive them. The seats are terribly uncomfortable, at least in the two Outbacks and the one Legacy we have owned. Both previous models were gone before hitting 60k, this one would have been but the new vehicle is not yet in. Now we have what I believe is a wheel bearing noise in the front end. This is a highway commuter car, no rough use whatsoever.

To date, I have paid for all the recommended maintenance. Oil changes at 3900 miles, fluid flushes and tuneup along with new tires. The additional warranty work has totaled over $1300 for plugged converters and O2 sensors. I do agree that they are fantastic cars for winter driving, especially for a woman, and they price out not much differently than a conventional fwd of Japanese lineage. This is one car that I do not what to own out of warranty and hope the new Ford arrives quickly since we are at that point now.

The only issue I have heard about synthetics being used too soon is in a diesel, and even that I take with a grain of salt. I don't believe you will go wrong no matter which you choose.
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Re: Oil Change

Postby usmccop » Sat Apr 03, 2010 2:02 am

Run Amsoil!!!
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